February, for me, has been a month of experimenting with new colors. I used to be a “run out the door” type of girl. Brown in the crease, beige on the lid- and I was done, maybe a winged liner here and there. But, this month, I decided I wanted to spruce things up a bit! I got my Morphe Brushes 35o palette in the mail in the beginning of the month and have had so much fun paying with it! This is an eyeshadow AND full face tutorial, including foundation, concealer, contour, etc. Read below to see how I got this look!
First you want to start off with a clean face, (of course, your makeup will not last at all if you don’t do this step!)
Prime: You always want to prime that pretty face so your makeup can last all day long! To do this, I used Too Faced Hangover Replenishing Face Primer . It’s a great primer if your skin is feeling dry or dehydrated. Living in Phoenix, like me, can really dry out your skin so I LOVE this stuff.
Now onto the eyes. I usually start with my eyes when using eye shadow so that I can cover up any fallout that may land on my face or cheeks.
Eyes: Use an eyeshadow primer first. Any product will do, just choose one that you love and know will hold your eyeshadow. If you don’t have a favorite, I would suggest Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion . Next you’ll want to get out your 35o palette. If you don’t have this palette, I have included pictures of each color I use and you can just use as close a shade you have as possible!
First I went in with this peachy shade. (None of the colors have names, so I’ll just be describing them for you) I used this color in my crease as a transition shade and also to set some of the primer so it won’t crease. Build the color mostly on the outer corners of your crease to get that smokey feel to it.
Next I went in with this medium brown shade to deepen up the crease a bit. You’re just going to be building the color so you don’t need a lot on your brush at a time. Just build it slowly until you get the perfect blend of the two colors. Continue to build this color mostly on the outer corners.
I used a slightly darker brown next on the “V” of my outer corner to define to the edge and really make it smokey. (This shade will also be used later on to smoke out your lower lash line)
Now, to begin the golden shade on your lid you’ll be using both of the colors shown above. First you’ll want to put the slightly grey shade just below your crease blending it down towards your lash line slowly. I used a small shader brush for this part so I could have more control over the shadow. You don’t have to blend it all the way down because you’ll be covering it up with the gold shimmer shade next.
Then, take a small shader brush again, and if you want, you can spritz your brush with a little bit of Mac Cosmetics Fix+, this will make your shadow last a little longer and will also make your shadow a bit more metallic. That step is optional, honestly it’s all just personal preference, so play around with it first on your hand to try it out. If you like it then great, if not, that’s great too! All eyes are unique so don’t be afraid to put your own spin on it. I decided to add the Fix+ so that my golden shade would really pop! I packed this color onto the entire lid, up to the crease line. Next, you’ll want to take a large clean fluffy shadow brush to blend out the crease once more. This step is important because this is what is going to make your smokey look cohesive and naturally blended.
From here, you can choose to add a liquid liner to the look or not. Totally up to you. If you’re comfortable with adding a winged liner (that’s what I did) then go ahead and put a wing on it! (If you like it then you shoulda put a wing on it!) If not, it will look great without one too. (Comment below if you’d like to see a tutorial on how to apply winged liquid eyeliner!) I already have eyelash extensions applied to my natural lashes, so I don’t use top mascara or false lashes, but here you can choose to either wear mascara or false lashes – or both! Again, this step is all just a personal preference. For now we are moving onto the face. We’ll go back to add to the lower lash line once your foundation is complete!
Face: For my foundation I used the Makeup Forever Ultra HD Invisible Cover Stick. This foundation is a great medium-full coverage. You’ll want to blend this baby out with a damp Beauty Blender because, as it is still an incredibly creamy foundation stick, it may look cakey if you only use a foundation brush to blend it out. For concealer/highlight I used Urban Decay- Naked Skin Weightless Complete Coverage Concealer. This stuff is literally bliss for your face. If you don’t like it, then you’d have to be blind because it is seriously so weightless, doesn’t crease, and feels like butter! (in a good way, not like sticky, greasy way) I apply it under my eyes in a “V” shape like this:
Once that is all blended out beautifully, with a damp beauty blender of course, then you can choose to highlight with the concealer like this:
Again, just blend that out with your beauty blender. If you ever question if you’ve blended enough, blend some more. That’s how you’ll get the airbrushed look! You don’t have to do this step if you don’t want to, but it’ll add some depth to your face so your face doesn’t look “flat”. If you’re like me, you may get a little oily throughout the day. It happens, but recently I’ve started using the Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder to “bake” my concealer and foundation and it seriously works wonders on oily-combination skin! It is well worth the $38 price tag and it’ll last you a LONG time! Let this powder set on your face for about a minute or two and then just brush off the excess. You will be oil free all day 🙂
Contouring. This is what’s going to make your face look like you’re a supermodel that nobody has discovered yet. If you have never contoured before, YOU ARE MISSING OUT! Just take a large powder brush first and dip it into your favorite bronzer. I used Bahama Mama Bronzer by The Balm Cosmetics. Apply this to the apples of your cheeks, your temples above the ear, and along your hairline on your forehead. This is what is going to help your “five-head” become a forehead. It’ll also add depth and slim out your face a bit if you have a rounded face, like me! To carve out my contour a little bit more, I took a flat contouring brush by Morphe Brushes, and I dipped it into Kat Von D’s Shade and Light Palette. This is another one of those products that is bliss. If you don’t own this palette, you must be living under a rock. It’s one of the most raved about contouring palettes, and with good reason. I used the lightest contouring powder, Sombre, to carve out my contour.
Add a small amount to where you put your bronzer and blend upwards. You can also use this shade along your jawline to hide or camouflage any double chin action going on.
Onto the blush. I used one of my favorite blushes ever, Milani Baked Blush in the shade Luminoso. You can get this shade online or at literally almost any drug store too. It looks beautiful on EVERYONE! Get it now. Apply this to the apples of your cheeks just above your contour. For highlight, I used a mixture of Mary-Lou Manizer by the Balm and Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector in Moonstone. Get that highlight on FLEEK!
Back to the eyes real quick. You’ll take a small pencil brush, and dip it into any medium-dark brown matte shadow and lightly brush it along your lower lash line. Concentrate most of the product near the outer corner to make the “smokey” look. You’ll then use any black kohl eyeliner to line your bottom water line. And add mascara (optional) to your lower lashes! Bam, your done with the eyes.
You’re almost done with the look I promise! Just have to do the lips! I used the new beautiful shade from Kat Von D liquid lipstick line called Lolita II. I over lined my lips just a bit to make them look a little plumper!
To finish off this look I just spritzed my face with the Mac Fix+ again to make sure my makeup would stay all day and all night. VOILA, you are now a beautiful butterfly! This was my final result:
If you happen to recreate this look or a look inspired by this tutorial, I’d love to see it! Tag me on instagram @girlirae or comment below! Thanks for reading!
XO, Girli Rae